ULTREIA!

Jan in front of the Catherdral

Wednesday September 24th

ULTREIA! This was the greeting from pilgrim to pilgrim on the Camino before it became BUEN CAMINO!  ULTREIA! ONWARD! That is our mission today as we make our way to Santiago.

We have water, fruit, a little cheese and some bread in our pack, but we need coffee and some breakfast.  There is a very nice cafe/bar across from our hostel.  We order our cafe grandes and large flaky pastries with almonds and sugar. We ask the patrona if she could stamp our credentiales for us.  Alas, she does not have a sello to give us a stamp. When we are ready to leave she offers us a gold seal sticker that she use to seal pastry boxes. We each put a gold sticker in our credentiale,  gratefully.  It competes with the green martini glass sello from the bar in Mino!

It is a brilliantly sunny day. We are in forest areas and see logs being hauled out. We cross over and under  super highways several times.  We stop at a bar to have water and coffee and the patron brings us a plate of ham and bread to go with it. ULTREIA!  We reach another small village and come upon the village lavedero where everyone would have come to wash there clothes.  It is cool and shady and there is a nice bench.  We stop for lunch lunch.

Mel on the Cathedral steps.

Santiago is near.  We are walking through an Industrial Park on the outskirts of the city.  Soon we have a fleeting glimpse of the Cathedral spires.  It is time to stop for coffee.  ULTREIA! almost there.  The scallop shell symbols and yellow arrows seen to be disappearing.  We are in Santiago but we feel  lost.  Finally we find ourselves near the University and then the Church of St Francis and then we hear the bag pipes playing.  ULTREIA! We have arrived! We are in the square in front of the Cathedral. We did it! We walked 120 kilometers in six days.  And I did it with a lot of help from my FRIENDS.  Thank You!

We want to go right to the Pilgrim Office to claim our certificates.  The next person we see is Juan from Madrid!  Of course, he arrived hours ahead of us and has done  all the rituals.  At the Pilgrim Office there is a mob of hundreds waiting in line to claim their Compostela.  It is warm and sunny, we are still carrying back packs.  The Pilgrim Office is open until 9 PM.  We decide to go to the hotel, unload our stuff and come back later. As we walk through the Square in front of the Cathedral we meet Eduardo who has just arrived. We all congratulate ourselves again. We all did it!

After checking in to the hotel, we unpack, sort our stuff and shower.  We each do a lot of laundry in the small bathroom sink.  We have a wonderful view of the Cathedral spires from our room.  Luckily, we have 3 large windows in which to string lines and hang our clothes to dry. Thick socks take much longer to dry than quick-dry hiking trousers. ULTREIA!

We are ready to head back to the Pilgrim Office to get our official recognition.  We arrive at 7:30, there is still a line but the many 100's have dwindled to about 50.  A few folks ahead of us ask others if they would save their spot while they do a few souvenir purchases at nearby shop.  They no more than walk out of the line when a security person herds us inside the courtyard and closes the gate.  Only the people in the courtyard will get their Compostelas tonight.  Jan and I are second to last to be issued certificates tonight.  The green martini glass and the gold pastry shop seal are all accepted.  We have our Compostelas in hand.  ULTREIA!

The view from our hotel room

We treat ourselves to a well deserved dinner and a nice glass of wine.  It is getting late, very late for us.  We head back to the hotel, on the way through the square in front of the Cathedral we are attracted to the sound of guitars and enthusiastic singing and clapping.  A group of troubadors in 16th century costumes are singing folk songs.  We stop to listen and join in, while clapping to the beat we are greeted and congratulated by the Italian girls from our Camino family!  It is Midnight and a wonderful ending to the day, and our Camino Ingles.  ULTREIA!

Buen Camino

Mel

p.s. I am so grateful to Jan who took the time out of her busy life to walk the Camino Ingles with me.  I needed her every day.  She made this a beautiful trip for me. She is an even more beautiful person1


p.p.s. I hope to have all pictures posted by December1, 2014

The Botafumeiro in flight

GOAL! (almost)

Tuesday, September 23^rd

I feel completely renewed after yesterday's melt down. It has been a pleasant day walking 24 kilometers to Siguero. There is a feeling of elation as we have nearly reached Santiago. At every resting place the girls from Sardinia are just about to leave. And again when we reach the Hostal Miras in Siguero The girls have arrived just ahead of us. They are in their early thirties and Jan and I  feel we have done well to keep up with them. 

Santiago in the distance

the end of sun flower season

Route markings

There is no Albergue facility in Siguero so we are staying at an inexpensive hotel. The cost is about 3 times what we have been paying for the Albergue, we have a private room, but a shared bathroom.  At every Albergue there has been plenty of hot water and the showers were excellent. Alas the shower at the hostal is not up to the Albergue standard.  It is not just cold, it is frigid.  Or you could say it was water conservation made easy. Brrrr!

GOAL!

Tonight we are heading out for dinner.  We walk around the town and decide on a bar offering tasty looking pizzas and a salad menu.  When we go in there are a couple of people at the bar talking. A half hour later the bar begins to fill up. Then the patron pulls down a very LARGE screen TV. All the tables and chairs are facing the screen . There is a table of 5 older men who have ordered cokes and bottle of scotch. Everyone has come in to watch the BIG match between Real Madrid and Barcelona.  This is very serious TV watching.  

Tomorrow is our day to shout GOAL! We will arrive in Santiago.

THE BREAD MAN

Updating journals

bunks @ Hospital de Bruma

Monday, September 22nd

Last night at 10 pm the hospitallero came in and wished all pilgrims a "good rest" lights out...the Albergue was officially closed. At 10:30pm we all awoke to violent banging on the door.  Alas some stayed out later than the Albergue allowed.  After 10 minutes of banging someone took pity on the sleeping pilgrims and opened the door to the late comers.  They were not welcomed by those
already in their beds.

Today is  a long day of walking - 28 km plus a climb at the end of 447 meters with a grade of 1:10. It translates as steep.  Our objective is Hospital de Bruma, a very early Pilgrim refuge. The guidebook warns that there is no place to buy supplies along the way.  Our intermediate goal after 18km and just before we start the steep climb is Bar Julia. We are already planning our lunch break there.

We leave the Albergue at 8AM and walk 20 meters to the bar for coffee and coffee cake while taking in the architecture of the 15th century Santiago Church of Betanzos. We begin our morning walk at 8:50. The Sardinian girls are waiting for the grocery store to open at 9 am. We continue walking through town and stop at a panaderia to buy bread. The walk out of town is a series of steep turns and at the top of a hill overlooking the city is a metal sculpture of Santiago pointing the way.  It is time for a rest. We stop to take in the scenery. Behind us we spot the Sardinian girls walking with Eduardo.  Eduardo catches up with us and we resume our conversations from yesterday.

On most days when we have walked in the countryside we frequently hear what sounds like an impatient driver in a traffic jam - TOOT, TOOT,TOOT.  We have discovered that this is the bread man making daily deliveries to his rural customers. I am sure he is a source of news and GOSSIP as well as fresh bread.

It is a beautiful day.  The kilometres are passing slowly. Jan and Eduardo assure me we should be at Bar Julia soon  …maybe 2 or 3 kilometres more.  I have finished 1.5 litres of water and eaten all my snacks. I think my blood sugar has reached a new low as I take another rest.  Just then a small van comes around the corner.  I yell to Jan to stop the van and ask how far to Bar Julia.  The van driver gives directions that indicate up hill, down hill and up hill.  I am not enthused.  The van driver offers all of us a lift. I say YES immediately!  Jan and Eduardo are content to walk on. The driver clears off the passenger seat for me. Everything is covered in a fine white dust. I think he is taking bags of concrete to a construction site.  So off we go and suddenly it happens …TOOT, TOOT, TOOT!!! I have been rescued by the Bread Man!  We make 3 deliveries before we get to Bar Julia.

I am a hungry and thirsty Pilgrim.  I ask for water and am told NO, they are closed; I can see people I know in the dining room.  Finally Eduardo and Jan arrive. I am totally distressed by the refusal of service.  Eduardo to the rescue. He manages to get us bowls of soup and a chickpea stew cooked with every animal part possible and  of course, water.  As I get refueled I begin to feel restored and energized and CALM. Jan and Eduardo are much relieved that I have regained my composure.  Eduardo parts company with us with a " Buen Camino. See you in Santiago."  He has a chosen an easier walk today.

Jan and I have been dreading this steep climb today.  Although it is hard, it seems almost effortless compared to other climbs we have done this week.  We arrive at the Albergue, looking forward to hot showers and dinner.  There is no local eating place, but we are shown a menu from an area restaurant. We make choices including wine.  At 7:30 dinner is delivered.  We all sit at one big table and enjoy the comraderie of our fellow Pilgrims!  We are more than half way there.  Although everyone is tired and aching, we are happy!

a new house

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and across the road
abandoned house