THE BREAD MAN

Updating journals

bunks @ Hospital de Bruma

Monday, September 22nd

Last night at 10 pm the hospitallero came in and wished all pilgrims a "good rest" lights out...the Albergue was officially closed. At 10:30pm we all awoke to violent banging on the door.  Alas some stayed out later than the Albergue allowed.  After 10 minutes of banging someone took pity on the sleeping pilgrims and opened the door to the late comers.  They were not welcomed by those
already in their beds.

Today is  a long day of walking - 28 km plus a climb at the end of 447 meters with a grade of 1:10. It translates as steep.  Our objective is Hospital de Bruma, a very early Pilgrim refuge. The guidebook warns that there is no place to buy supplies along the way.  Our intermediate goal after 18km and just before we start the steep climb is Bar Julia. We are already planning our lunch break there.

We leave the Albergue at 8AM and walk 20 meters to the bar for coffee and coffee cake while taking in the architecture of the 15th century Santiago Church of Betanzos. We begin our morning walk at 8:50. The Sardinian girls are waiting for the grocery store to open at 9 am. We continue walking through town and stop at a panaderia to buy bread. The walk out of town is a series of steep turns and at the top of a hill overlooking the city is a metal sculpture of Santiago pointing the way.  It is time for a rest. We stop to take in the scenery. Behind us we spot the Sardinian girls walking with Eduardo.  Eduardo catches up with us and we resume our conversations from yesterday.

On most days when we have walked in the countryside we frequently hear what sounds like an impatient driver in a traffic jam - TOOT, TOOT,TOOT.  We have discovered that this is the bread man making daily deliveries to his rural customers. I am sure he is a source of news and GOSSIP as well as fresh bread.

It is a beautiful day.  The kilometres are passing slowly. Jan and Eduardo assure me we should be at Bar Julia soon  …maybe 2 or 3 kilometres more.  I have finished 1.5 litres of water and eaten all my snacks. I think my blood sugar has reached a new low as I take another rest.  Just then a small van comes around the corner.  I yell to Jan to stop the van and ask how far to Bar Julia.  The van driver gives directions that indicate up hill, down hill and up hill.  I am not enthused.  The van driver offers all of us a lift. I say YES immediately!  Jan and Eduardo are content to walk on. The driver clears off the passenger seat for me. Everything is covered in a fine white dust. I think he is taking bags of concrete to a construction site.  So off we go and suddenly it happens …TOOT, TOOT, TOOT!!! I have been rescued by the Bread Man!  We make 3 deliveries before we get to Bar Julia.

I am a hungry and thirsty Pilgrim.  I ask for water and am told NO, they are closed; I can see people I know in the dining room.  Finally Eduardo and Jan arrive. I am totally distressed by the refusal of service.  Eduardo to the rescue. He manages to get us bowls of soup and a chickpea stew cooked with every animal part possible and  of course, water.  As I get refueled I begin to feel restored and energized and CALM. Jan and Eduardo are much relieved that I have regained my composure.  Eduardo parts company with us with a " Buen Camino. See you in Santiago."  He has a chosen an easier walk today.

Jan and I have been dreading this steep climb today.  Although it is hard, it seems almost effortless compared to other climbs we have done this week.  We arrive at the Albergue, looking forward to hot showers and dinner.  There is no local eating place, but we are shown a menu from an area restaurant. We make choices including wine.  At 7:30 dinner is delivered.  We all sit at one big table and enjoy the comraderie of our fellow Pilgrims!  We are more than half way there.  Although everyone is tired and aching, we are happy!

a new house

.







and across the road
abandoned house